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Cudweed patterns

So-called 'cudweed' or 'Lithuanian' pattern. The photo made by the author, 1996Names of textile patterns were registered mostly in the 20th century. In various places in Lithuania the same pattern was perceived differently. We will discuss the data collected in the field research, as to the question, what cudweed (katpėdėlės) patterns were suitable for and when they were woven.

According to data from expeditions, there is a common opinion in Lithuania that cudweed patterns are not new. Patterns of similar forms were woven with different weaves and were called differently.

At the beginning of the 20th century the names of textile patterns such as ritinėliai and kretilraštis were known in Northwest Lithuania. Similar check patterns spread in different places in Lithuania. In East Lithuania patterns like cudweed are named, referring to their similarity to windows. Another name for this pattern is Lithuanian (lietuviški).

In the middle of the 20th century in Northwest Lithuania combinations of quadrangle checks of three sizes were called cudweed. In the Zarasai district four-thread dim patterns, analogous to cudweed, were called roses (rožytės).* Some more rarely used definitions of patterns are noted. There were clover (dobiliukai)* patterns in the district of Tauragė. In Smilginiai, now Belorussia, such combinations of quadrangles are called dzvaneliai .* The names must have arisen from pattern forms and the similarity of natural phenomena.

In the textiles of the middle of the 20th century and later, cudweed motifs are woven into combinations of recreated patterns . For example, in Southeast Lithuania they are arranged with broken lines .* In the environs of Pelesa, now Belorussia, original combinations of cudweed form motifs with bigger quadrangles of several sizes were found .* In Lithuania not only Lithuanian women but also women of other nationalities could weave patterns of the same forms of elements of two and three sizes. It was recorded that Polish women,* living in the regions of Trakai and Vilnius, wove and still weave these patterns.

We could say that predecessors of contemporary cudweed motifs were woven not by dims, but by multi-thread weaves. In the first half of the 20th century, unique pattern names in West Lithuania were kretilraštis, in East Lithuania ritinėliai, roses (rožytės), in Southeast Lithuania (the Vilnius region) Lithuanian patterns. From the middle of the 20th century, cudweed patterns were known in all Lithuania.

 

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