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SQUARE MOTIFS
Cudweed patterns
Names of textile patterns
were registered mostly in the 20th century. In various places
in Lithuania the same pattern was perceived differently.
We will discuss the data collected in the field research, as to the question, what
cudweed (katpėdėlės) patterns were suitable for and when they were woven.
According to data from expeditions, there is a common opinion in Lithuania that
cudweed patterns
are not new. Patterns of similar forms were woven with different weaves
and were called differently.
At the beginning of the 20th century the names of textile
patterns such as
ritinėliai and kretilraštis were known in
Northwest Lithuania. Similar check
patterns spread in different places in Lithuania. In East Lithuania patterns like
cudweed are named, referring to their similarity to windows. Another name for this pattern is
Lithuanian (lietuviški).
In the middle of the 20th century in
Northwest Lithuania combinations of quadrangle checks of three sizes were called
cudweed. In the Zarasai district four-thread
dim patterns, analogous to cudweed, were called roses
(rožytės).* Some more rarely used definitions of
patterns are noted. There were
clover (dobiliukai)* patterns in the district of Tauragė. In Smilginiai, now Belorussia, such combinations of quadrangles are called
dzvaneliai
.* The names must have arisen from pattern forms and
the similarity of natural phenomena.
In the textiles of the middle of the 20th century and later,
cudweed motifs are woven into combinations of recreated patterns
. For example, in
Southeast Lithuania they are arranged with broken lines
.* In the environs of Pelesa, now Belorussia, original combinations of cudweed form
motifs with bigger quadrangles of several sizes were
found .* In Lithuania not only Lithuanian women but also women of other nationalities could weave patterns of the same forms of elements of two and three sizes. It was recorded that Polish
women,* living in the regions of Trakai and Vilnius, wove and still weave these
patterns.
We could say that predecessors of contemporary
cudweed motifs were woven not by dims, but by multi-thread weaves. In the first half of the 20th century, unique pattern names in
West Lithuania were
kretilraštis, in East Lithuania ritinėliai,
roses (rožytės), in Southeast Lithuania (the
Vilnius region) Lithuanian patterns. From the middle of the 20th century, cudweed patterns were known in all Lithuania.

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