PRESENTS

The role of textiles in customs

Textiles are considered to be a meaningful gift in Lithuanian country society. It is known that even in the first half of the 20th century women used to hide the fact that they did not know how to weave. In many cases fabric is not only a material gift but also a significant action related to the woman's intentions, beliefs and desires; the most beautiful patterned fabrics are dedicated to them.
According to data from field research, almost all respondents, when asked what textile patterns meant and on what occasions they were given as presents, spoke about marriage presents. At marriages very beautiful textiles were given as a gift in Poland, in the district of Seinai, * in Estonia, * Prussia, countries of the Baltic and Scandinavia. * This is the best-known and most widespread custom of giving presents. There are symbolic images of textiles in birth and baptism customs. Fabrics were given when expressing friendliness. Fabrics were important in the customs of honoring the deceased. Fabrics were given as offerings when desiring the fulfillment of wishes. Textiles were thought to be a means of protection. Fabrics had a symbolic meaning in the agrarian customs of gathering in the harvest.

In fact such different examples of textile offerings and presents in older community rituals, and their relicts in contemporary country society, show the social importance of fabrics. Many contemporary customs have been noted in Southeast Lithuania. We cannot single out regional peculiarities of textiles as a symbol because given facts show only separate singularities of customs.

Let us remember the statement of Alfred L. Kroeber that cultural phenomena are based on principles other than social phenomena, social phenomena are based on principles other than mental phenomena, and so on.* Political upheavals and reforms changed the geopolitical situation in the country in Lithuania. The alteration of meanings of giving textiles as presents was determined firstly by the processes of industrialization and communication. Social culture has changed a lot. But there are relicts of customs of the old agrarian community in the intellect of contemporary society.

It may be stated that the old fabric patterns, which traveled from textiles with certain purposes to other textiles, changed their meanings, and the given fabric, that had to be patterned in special colors on certain occasions, was more meaningful than the pattern.